Stove & Range Repair — Book a Visit Today
A range takes more abuse than any other appliance in the house. Burners get boiled over. Oven doors get leaned on. Spills work down into the igniters and dry there. Most of what we see comes down to a handful of parts: surface igniters that click but won't light, bake elements that burned through at a weak spot, a failed oven sensor throwing the temperature off, a control board that lost a relay, or a door switch that thinks the door is open. A visit starts with your description, then testing at the part itself. We work on gas and electric, freestanding and slide-in, all major brands, as an independent shop. Call us and tell us what the stove is doing.
- Real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quotes
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quote before work starts
Taking calls until 5:00 PM ET
The stove & range symptoms we hear most
- It clicks and clicks but never lights Fouled igniter electrode, wet burner cap, or a cracked spark module
- Oven runs way hotter than the dial says Drifting oven temperature sensor or a control board out of calibration
- Bake side is dead, broil still works Open bake element or a burned relay on the control
- Front burner only goes high or off Failed infinite switch or a burned surface element terminal
- Smells like gas near the range Loose fitting, worn valve seal, or an orifice issue — shut it off and call
Safe things to check first
Worth a look before you call — sometimes it saves you the visit.
- 1Make sure the burner caps sit flat and dry in their seats, since a shifted cap alone will stop ignition.
- 2Look at the oven element while it heats for a blister, split, or bright spot that means it's failed.
- 3Check the breaker for an electric range, because losing one leg of the 240 kills the oven but leaves lights working.
- 4Pull the racks and confirm nothing — foil, a pan, a stray liner — is blocking the vent or touching the element.
How it works
- Step 1
Tell us the symptom
Ring us or fill in the form. Describe the noise, the smell, the puddle. Give us the brand and rough age. Small details narrow the part before anyone drives to your door.
- Step 2
We set a window
You get a visit window that fits your day, not ours. We text when the van is close. Older shotgun houses have tight halls, so tell us where the machine sits.
- Step 3
Diagnose and repair
Our tech tests the machine, shows you what failed, and explains the fix in plain words. Common parts ride in the van. Anything ordered, we schedule the return before we leave.
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quote before work starts
Stove & Range Repair — quick answers
Do you work on gas ranges as well as electric?
Both. Gas ranges bring igniter, valve, and safety-valve problems. Electric ranges bring elements, switches, and terminal blocks. Slide-in, freestanding, or drop-in, the diagnosis follows the same order: confirm the symptom, test the part, then decide on repair.
Why does my oven take so long to preheat now?
Usually a weak bake element or a sensor reading high, so the control shuts off heat too early. A worn door gasket lets heat escape and adds time too. We test the sensor's resistance cold and check the element draw under load.
Is a clicking igniter dangerous to keep using?
Don't keep trying it. Repeated clicking with no flame means unburned gas is releasing into the room. Turn the knob off, let the area air out, and call us. A wet cap sometimes explains it, but a cracked electrode needs hands on it.
My glass cooktop is cracked. Can that be repaired?
A cracked ceramic top gets replaced, not patched. Stop using it — moisture and spills reaching the elements underneath create a shock risk. We can source the glass for most models and check the elements and wiring while the top is off.
Does self-clean damage the oven?
It can. The high heat stresses the door lock motor, the sensor, and the control board. Failures often show up right after a clean cycle. If your oven went dead following self-clean, mention that when you call — it points us toward the thermal fuse and control first.
How do I know if it's the control board or something simpler?
Boards get blamed a lot and are often innocent. We rule out the cheap stuff first: element continuity, sensor resistance, door switch, wire connections at the terminal block. Only when those test good does the board become the likely answer.
How it works
- Step 1
Tell us the symptom
Ring us or fill in the form. Describe the noise, the smell, the puddle. Give us the brand and rough age. Small details narrow the part before anyone drives to your door.
- Step 2
We set a window
You get a visit window that fits your day, not ours. We text when the van is close. Older shotgun houses have tight halls, so tell us where the machine sits.
- Step 3
Diagnose and repair
Our tech tests the machine, shows you what failed, and explains the fix in plain words. Common parts ride in the van. Anything ordered, we schedule the return before we leave.
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quote before work starts
Questions worth asking any repair company
Ask these of anyone you let into your home — us included. Call and we'll answer all five before you book anything.
- 1Ask for their license numberThen verify it with your state licensing board rather than taking it on trust.
- 2Ask for proof of insuranceLiability cover protects you if something goes wrong in your home.
- 3Get the quote in writingIncluding the trip fee, whether it's credited against the repair, and parts.
- 4Ask how they handle callbacksIf the same fault returns, what happens? Get the answer before work begins.
- 5Check their own reviewsLook the business up independently — their Google profile, not just what they tell you.
Why homeowners call us
- Hard water is our daily workLimestone water scales heating elements, clogs dishwasher jets, and crusts up valves. We see it every week here. So we look past the error code to the mineral buildup that caused it, then tell you how to slow it down.
- River-valley damp changes thingsHumidity in this valley rusts dryer housings, sours washer gaskets, and stalls condensate drains. Basement laundry rooms suffer worst. We check venting and drainage on every laundry call, because a dry machine stays fixed longer.
- Independent, all major brandsWe work on refrigerators, ranges, ovens, dishwashers, washers, and dryers from every major maker. No brand pays us and no brand tells us what to say. Our advice about repairing or replacing is only ours.
- Old houses, careful handsShotgun homes and pre-war kitchens have narrow doorways, soft floors, and odd wiring. We pad thresholds, protect trim, and move heavy units slowly. When we leave, the only change should be a working appliance.
- All major brands, gas & electricWhirlpool, Samsung, LG, GE, Maytag, Bosch, KitchenAid and more — as an independent repair company.
- Straight answersIf it isn't worth repairing, we'll say so — often on the phone.
Stove & Range Repair
Small faults become big ones on a schedule of their own
Describe the symptoms and we'll book the visit — takes about a minute.
- A real person answers
- Open 7 days
- Written quotes
- All major brands
- Gas & electric
Rather not call? Get a free quote →